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  1. #1
    SouthernCoyote's Avatar
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    Looking good. I haven't started yet on mine. Will do the upper first so I can bed the barrel and let it set while I do the lower. Give it a few days to cure then put the upper and lower together so I can mount and zero optics and get ready for load development.
    "Do I reload to shoot more, or do I shoot to reload more?" 30-378 Weatherby, .300 RUM, 7mm Rem Mag, 6.5 Creedmoor, .223/5.56, .375 H&H, .40 S&W, 10mm, .357 SIG

  2. #2
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernCoyote View Post
    Looking good. I haven't started yet on mine. Will do the upper first so I can bed the barrel and let it set while I do the lower. Give it a few days to cure then put the upper and lower together so I can mount and zero optics and get ready for load development.
    Sweet! Post some pics if you can.

    Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Iron369's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernCoyote View Post
    Looking good. I haven't started yet on mine. Will do the upper first so I can bed the barrel and let it set while I do the lower. Give it a few days to cure then put the upper and lower together so I can mount and zero optics and get ready for load development.
    Bedding the barrel on an ar15?

  4. #4
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Iron369 View Post
    Bedding the barrel on an ar15?
    Yup, I didn't know that was a thing either until watched a great video on YouTube. Pretty cool actually.

    Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

  5. #5
    SouthernCoyote's Avatar
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    Yes, I use loctite 620 to bed it. Variances in parts can allow for slight gaps and play between barrel and receivers, some tighter than others and even needing thermal fitting. I took one of my plinker 18" ARs and used it as an experiment since the best I could get from it was usually around 1.3" with handloads. There was some play between the barrel and receiver before tightening the barrel nut. I believe that Lil gap causes the barrel to shift slightly when firing. So I used loctite 620 to fill the gap, let it sit for a few days, then took it back to shoot. Groups went from 1.3"-2" size down to around the .65-.7" range with some being smaller. This was with a cheap barrel since it was a plinker. So I'm sold that filling the gap between the barrel and receiver actually does work. Will be doing it on all future builds and the others I already have.
    "Do I reload to shoot more, or do I shoot to reload more?" 30-378 Weatherby, .300 RUM, 7mm Rem Mag, 6.5 Creedmoor, .223/5.56, .375 H&H, .40 S&W, 10mm, .357 SIG

  6. #6
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SouthernCoyote View Post
    Yes, I use loctite 620 to bed it. Variances in parts can allow for slight gaps and play between barrel and receivers, some tighter than others and even needing thermal fitting. I took one of my plinker 18" ARs and used it as an experiment since the best I could get from it was usually around 1.3" with handloads. There was some play between the barrel and receiver before tightening the barrel nut. I believe that Lil gap causes the barrel to shift slightly when firing. So I used loctite 620 to fill the gap, let it sit for a few days, then took it back to shoot. Groups went from 1.3"-2" size down to around the .65-.7" range with some being smaller. This was with a cheap barrel since it was a plinker. So I'm sold that filling the gap between the barrel and receiver actually does work. Will be doing it on all future builds and the others I already have.
    Did you lap the upper?

    Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

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