Working on some 300 Blackout loads. Using heavy bullets for the first time. 190gr Hornady Subx and 194gr Leigh maximum expansion.
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Working on some 300 Blackout loads. Using heavy bullets for the first time. 190gr Hornady Subx and 194gr Leigh maximum expansion.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
I set up to run some 9mm bullets-Lee 356-125-2R- last night. These are a trial run for a friend who was hunting a bullet that works in his 1911. We also got several options in other molds on hand here. Yesterday was a trial run of Lyman 358311 160gr. RN bullets. Results for that bullet were extremely good using 4grs of Accurate #2. The decision is still pending today on running some more of that bullet. The RN bullet loaded easily into the revolvers from strips and speed loaders. Accuracy is equal to the 358477 155 gr. SWC in target loads. Shortage of components is really starting to hurt any experimentation.
Last edited by Mowgli Terry; 12-02-2021 at 01:50 AM.
Did the swc bullets feed in his 1911 ok?
The 9mm bullets are today's project. He had one of his store bought bullets keyholing. I'm going to make some water quenched bullets sized .356. 357. Owner of the gun was not a good historian. Therefor, it's gonna be try this and try that. I suspect bullets appropriately hard and right diameter will make all that go away. Owner has not shared any malfunctions with any of the bullets he has tried. Doing this kind of favor is inviting a trip into a rabbit hole.
I had trouble with the 358-125 with the seating depth . One pistol needed them deeper to chamber . Not a lot maybe .01.
Clean , warm mould .
Generally if the bands fail to fill out uniformly it's a dirt issue , usually oil or some protecterant .
If it is unique to the base or parting quadrant it may be a venting issue . Clean the faces and check the cavity for edge burrs that may be obstructing vent lines .
If you have wrinkles/lines/drips on the bullet the usual suspect is a mould not hot enough .
As a last basic test add tin . Like soap added to water it makes the tin "wetter" and breaks surface tension allowing better flow .
Much of this to follow assumes a new iron Lyman mould for terminology , you named a 454242 I'm not familiar with but I know the 454424 well with a copy in both Lyman and NOE .
Advanced issues if all else fails .
The sprue pour hole may be too small for the mould . We're talking about .01s too small here not bust out the fraction drills and open'er up to 1/4" , it's more like a 40-45° chamfer tool and break a line .002-3 wide in the bluing and square off the inside of any raised burrs.
Break the top edge of the mould facing the sprue plate . Do this as a last resort , again we're talking about being able to see the break edge in the bluing .
Aluminum moulds generally don't need to have the top break done but even the best quality examples can have a burr or some other something in a vent line it's been known to be dust .