Trying a new way to do my BDC on my Nikon scopes

[72Camaro]

Had a chance to go to a 400yd range. Was hoping for a 600 but my most likely long shot would be 450yds for hunting and that is still not likely but more likey 200 to 325 yds and the range only went to 400yds, brother-in-laws range. That being said, most of my loads were close enough on the 400yds and a couple small adjustments (except for my M223 scope is the second diamond down) so I sighted in at 400 since they were all at least on paper in the general area of the 4" red circle initially and adjusted my scopes to hit on at 400yds in the red circle and figured at 200yds they would be close enough to cross hairs as that is where they originally were sighted in for zero elevation and windage. Took them back to my range later to check on my theory and all the rifles were around 1" of the bull roughly so close enough for deer/elk. I think this is what I'm going to sight in for future big game for now.

Anyone see any problems with that?

[EUDE75]

That's exactly how i have my rifles set up. It works quite well. Even my 22 magnum is set for 250 yards. If I'm having to shoot closer i just hold a little low. It hasn't failed me yet.

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[SAWMAN]

I do it somewhat different. I pretty much stick to the theory . . "on at 50,on at 150". Depending on the chambering and/or bullet fired at what speed . . "on at 200".
Using a 10" pie plate,I zero for center at 50yds. Then start moving back 50yds at a time. At first,holding on center of plate. Then at the distance that my hits start getting at the bottom of the plate,start holding on the top of the plate.
Holding top of plate see how far away you can still hit the plate. Keep careful notes. Change the plate often. Write on plates your distances and circle your hits.
Paper plates are cheap and when you get back home you can make a chart to tape to the stock of your gun.
As a guide in Maine,hunting moose,deer,or bear,I would take my sports to the "range" and determine at what distance they could still put hits on a plate. That is the MAX distance that I would allow them to take a shot at a game animal.
But speaking of Nikon Scopes . . . I got my first scope that had the reticle in the FIRST FOCAL PLANE. I am starting to like these scopes. Not so much for rangeing,but for the fact of being able to change the size of your reticle.
I know . . . HUH ? . . . but works great for me. --- SAWMAN

[72Camaro]

I've changed both my 7mm and 300 winmag to Nikon Prostaff 5 3.5-14x40 FFP scopes, which I think they have discontinued. Makes it tough to do pin point load development but having my guns now sighted in to hit 400yds in 4" or less and them both for larger game I'm pretty confident at any yardage up to about 450yds will be a good shot to take something down. When shooting at 400yds you can dial up or down also around the 4" red circle to really put a circle around the circle to get it pretty accurate. I think the biggest issue when going farther is cant of the gun and being able to tell level as a little bit will throw the shot right or left and you better have a good feel for level if you do not have level helpers on the gun. I believe I have a good idea what level is.