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  1. #11
    CodySPowell's Avatar
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    Moderator
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Spokane
    Posts
    949
    Quote Originally Posted by 4jorgies View Post
    Every day is a learning experience. That is the beauty of reloading. Always something to learn.

    I got started reloading by a retiring electrition giving me all of his equipment because he was moving into an RV.

    What I thought was a 40/10MM factory crimp die was nothing more than a seating die with the seating plug removed.

    That explains why I did not see what the benifet of the factory crimp die was.



    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
    Yes! The almighty learning process. That's why I love this hobby and the willingness of others to help. [emoji16]

    Sent from my SM-J727V using Tapatalk

  2. #12

    Title
    Premium Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    North Bend WA
    Posts
    73
    Update

    I used some pure lead and poured it into a spent .40 call casing that measured .403 I.D.

    After it cooled I used a kinetic bullet puller to remove the slug. The finished slug measured .402

    I then gave the barrel a good cleaning and after a light coat of oil I tapped the slug about halfway into the barrel then switched direction and taped it back out. The slug then measured .400 to .4005

    My calipers show a small 5 after the .400 but not sure I trust them to be that close

    Other changes

    I purchased some new Starline 10mm brass from Wes

    Purchased a Lee 4 die set that included the Factory Crimp Die

    Loading the 220gr bullet in the new brass with the new dies on a lee 3 hole turret I did not have any of the wrinkles in the case I was getting at the bottom of the bullet and only 2 of the 150 I loaded did not pass the plunk test before the FCD. After I ran them through the FCD 100% passed.

    I will see how they run this weekend. Also going to chronograph them to see if that changes at all

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

  3. #13

    Title
    Junior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    St. Louis
    Posts
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by 4jorgies View Post
    Update

    I used some pure lead and poured it into a spent .40 call casing that measured .403 I.D.

    After it cooled I used a kinetic bullet puller to remove the slug. The finished slug measured .402

    I then gave the barrel a good cleaning and after a light coat of oil I tapped the slug about halfway into the barrel then switched direction and taped it back out. The slug then measured .400 to .4005

    My calipers show a small 5 after the .400 but not sure I trust them to be that close

    Other changes

    I purchased some new Starline 10mm brass from Wes

    Purchased a Lee 4 die set that included the Factory Crimp Die

    Loading the 220gr bullet in the new brass with the new dies on a lee 3 hole turret I did not have any of the wrinkles in the case I was getting at the bottom of the bullet and only 2 of the 150 I loaded did not pass the plunk test before the FCD. After I ran them through the FCD 100% passed.

    I will see how they run this weekend. Also going to chronograph them to see if that changes at all

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
    Did you say you slugged the barrel from muzzle end but checked the squib from the chamber end? If so that implies the chamber end of the barrel is tighter than the muzzle. If so, nothing will fix that. Revolver barrels sometime are narrower where they screw into the frame but obviously an autoloader can't do that. So I want to be sure that's what you meant. As for the sizing die, there are sets from the same company that size while decapping and also those that size alone, with the decap die including belling. This got me just last week. I ordered a Lee sizing die so now I have two decap dies- one that sizes and one that bells.

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