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  1. #1

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    Newb question regarding case lube

    So I've been reloading 38/357 and 9mm. So far so good at 4k+ rounds. Thinking about reloading 223. I keep hearing about stuck cases, and then seeing the carnage that follows as people try to get the cases out. My questions are.....

    What is the most important part to make sure it gets lubed? Is it the neck? The body? The shoulders? Inside the case mouth? All? Never done any bottleneck cartridges and still need to buy dies, lube, case trimmer etc, but I was trying to figure out what probably causes most of the stuck cases. Thanks for any replies.

  2. #2

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    All of the above but mainly the complete outside of the case

  3. #3

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    Thanks Andy. I've read too much lube and they dent. Too little lube and they get stuck. Should be interesting for me lol.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  4. #4
    sagela's Avatar
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    Lube the body to avoid stuck cases, inside neck so the neck expander doesn't drag on the way out.

    Also be prepared to deal with crimped primer pockets. Lots of 5.56 brass available but most of it has crimped pockets.
    They can be removed with various tools (and most commercial reloads have been done this way) but the best way
    is to swage them - making the pocket stronger instead of weaker.
    Best swager is probably the Dillon @ north of $100 while the most common way to remove the crimp
    is with a $10 (eBay) case mouth chamfer/deburring tool.
    deburring tool.jpg



  5. #5

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    If you’re looking for a good lube make up a batch of your own from lanolin and red iso-heat. Or 97-99% rubbing alcohol. You can put several cases in a large bag spray some lube in and shake it around the cases will coat nicely and it works very well. There are many different strength people make I personally used 2oz of lanolin and 12oz of isoheat

  6. #6

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    An important thing with lube(especially spray lube) is to not over do it and to be sure that you allow time for the alcohol to evaporate after applying. Stuck cases often happen because the user didn’t have good coverage and/or tried resizing immediately after spraying. Give it a couple minutes and you’ll be fine. Overlubed cases cause dents and dimples. If you use a spray, just give it a few puffs from different angles and then wait before sizing and you’ll be fine.

  7. #7
    509Doug's Avatar
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    You'll find a good method and routine that works for you. I think we all had to experiment with it for a while until we figured out what worked for us and the set up we have to use.

  8. #8

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    I use Dillon case lube and a small Tupperware container. Put cases in the Tupperware container (about 30-40 cases) give them a few shots of lube, close and shake, then let dry for several minutes and you're good to go.
    Always do whats right because it's always the right thing to do.

  9. #9

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    Dillon

  10. #10
    Bigun's Avatar
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    Newb question regarding case lube

    I use lanolin/ alcohol on straightwall cases but I haven’t had good luck with lanolin/alcohol on bottleneck cases. It works enough they don’t stick but takes way too much effort on the handle. Unique is the best way to size bottleneck cases. Just wipe the finger you handle brass with across the lube and rub the middle, index, and thumb together. you get enough on it by just handling the case to put it in the press. Way less effort too.
    Also bushing dies take way less effort and don’t require inside neck lube.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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