Note: my opinions only, others please add or subtract in below post and I’ll edit as/if needed.
I think we can all agree that generally the best advice is to always go by your reloading manuals recommendation, but I think it is wise of us to also mention some EXCEPTIONS or tricks we know of when working with milsurp calibers:
- 30-06 in a M1 Garand.
· Unless you buy and use an adjustable gas plug, the general 30-06 rifle load data and a Garand’s op rod don't mix well. Load data needs to be Garand specific due to how faster powders could generate pressure spikes that may damage the op rod.
· IMR4895 at 48gr with a 150gr FMJ bullet is touted as being the modern equivalent of M2 Ball.
· Other ‘Garand’ style powders are typically those listed on a burn rate chart between IMR3031 (faster burn rate) and IMR4320 (slower burn rate). The most common powders in my experience are Varget, H4895, IMR4064, and R15. I’ve heard good things about Benchmark, BL-C(2) and Win 748 but have never tried them.
· COAL will likely be limited by efficient and reliable feeding from the enbloc where desired. I use 3.150” even though some books list up to 3.340”.
· Spitzer style bullets are best. Round nose or soft point bullets tend to not feed reliably.
· PS: limit removing the rifle from the stock to clean to as little as possible (yearly for me)...it can take10, 20 or more shots for it the settle back in.
- 7.5x55 Swiss in a K31
· Most 308 size bullets will work in these rifles but my experience is they like 150 to 180gr and do not perform as well below and above.
· The throats on the K31’s are shallow. Don't just use the listed book COAL or due to the short throats, you'll likely jam the bullet into the rifling causing excessive pressure (if you can even close the bolt). Measure and use an OAL specific to your rifle and the selected bullet.
· Sizing dies. The K31 chamber is wider than the older Schmidt-Rubin rifles. Redding and others make K31 specific dies that do not resize the brass as much as general 7.5x55 dies, if you are interested in that benefit. This ‘reduced’ resized brass will not typically fit in a K11, G1911 or earlier rifle though so be cognizant of what you are buying if you plan to reload for the older rifles also and don’t want to segregate dies and brass.
· Don’t be surprised if you end up with a COAL of 2.90” in the K31 (shallow throat). Measure for your rifle and selected bullet.
· Don’t just try to just duplicate the GP11 ammunition AOL, the ogive of the Swiss bullet is much further back than on your typical 308 bullet.
· Full length resize and don’t bother with neck sizing. Due to the straight bolt, they do not have the camming power of typical bolt guns so unless the round can be re-inserted at the orientation it was last fired at, it may hang up.
· R17 is reported to be the closest powder, readily available in the USA, to the GP11 powder. IMR4350 is also great. Varget, IMR4895, IMR4064 and similar also perform well.
- 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser in the M94, M96, M38 and M41/b rifles
· The throats on the typical Swede is deep so check to the lands for your selected bullet in your rifles but don’t be surprised when you have to just stay with magazine length as a maximum COAL.
· The M/41 surplus ammo uses a 139 gr boattail spritzer bullet and velocity is 2,600fps. Though higher is reachable, 2,600 is typical held as the normal top end.
· R22 is claimed to be the closest powder, readily available in the USA, to the M/41 surplus ammo powder. 44.5 grains or R22 behind a 140gr BTHP is said to be the modern equivalent.
- 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser in the AG-42B Ljungman
· Similar to the Garand, it needs slower powders like Varget, IMR4064, R15 and similiar for less violent operation (damage to extractor, ejector, etc) and at quantities lower than those listed in the books.
· In my experience, commercial ammo should be avoided or at least the higher velocity hunting ammo. Shooting up enough PPU soft point to get brass for reloading should be ok.
· Similar to the Garand, spritzer style bullets are best.
· You want to find the right balance between enough powder to work the action and seal around the case necks while limiting the distance the brass is thrown (and the dent the ejector puts in the case head).
· Methods for modifying the gas system to install an adjustable gas valve screw are available on the Swedish rifle forums.
- 8mm in a Hakim
· Similar to the Garand and Ljungman, it likes slower powders like Varget, IMR4064, R15 and such. This rifle does have an adjustable gas valve to help some with the gas pressures though.
· Avoid the 8mm Turk surplus ammo that is still relatively available. It is deemed too hot for the Hakim (stuck cases, damaged extractor, ejector, etc).
- 7.62x54R in Mosin Nagants.
· Bores vary due to haphazard manufacturing. Best to slug the barrel to confirm if you need .308, .310 or .312 (303) bullets.
· Some early Finnish Mosins may have 308 bores
· When resizing, you’ll probably find that even for the .310 bullets, you’ll want to use the 308 expander to get proper neck tension (so make sure the dies you by come with the 308 expander)
-303 British.
· Similar to above with the Mosin, Enfields can also have worn barrels so slugging to find the best bullet diameter is recommended.
· Neck size for each particular rifle and keep brass segregated by rifle (neck size till bolt will just close, so you head space off the neck and minimize overworking the brass).
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Originally Posted by Bobby Hall
