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  1. #1

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    Deburring rifle brass

    I have been trimming lots of rifle brass lately between a Lyman large style trimmer and the Lee lock stud and cutter. It seems no matter what I do, the cases get a heck of a burr on the outside of the case, easily enough to feel when you run a finger nail over it. I use a chamfer/deburring tool on all of these but it doesn’t seem to correct it unless I angle it so greatly that the cutting edge is near parallel with the case neck. I haven’t reloaded a lot of rifle rounds recently so this has me tripped up. Any insight? Do I need to correct this or does it get smoothed out a bit in the bullet seating die?


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  2. #2
    Flyeralan's Avatar
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    From my experience the burr you are seeing has a direct relationship to the condition of the trimmer blades. A good sharp carbide cutter blade will usually minimize the burr left behind. That said, a good sharp chamfer tool should remove it as well. Hope this helps.

    "Long range shooting, It's like golf, but for men"

  3. #3

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    I've trimmed cases that left an burr so aggressive that when I deburred them it would eject a thin brass ring.
    The neck (inside and out) needs to be smooth, continue deburring till it is.


  4. #4
    Guns4545's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jbotto View Post
    I have been trimming lots of rifle brass lately between a Lyman large style trimmer and the Lee lock stud and cutter. It seems no matter what I do, the cases get a heck of a burr on the outside of the case, easily enough to feel when you run a finger nail over it. I use a chamfer/deburring tool on all of these but it doesn’t seem to correct it unless I angle it so greatly that the cutting edge is near parallel with the case neck. I haven’t reloaded a lot of rifle rounds recently so this has me tripped up. Any insight? Do I need to correct this or does it get smoothed out a bit in the bullet seating die?


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    Just take the burr off inside and outside. Don't worry it being perfect.

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  5. #5

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    It just seems that if I use both the Lee and Forster chamfer/deburring tool that it puts a blade like edge on the case mouth by the time it actually removes the burr.


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  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jbotto View Post
    It just seems that if I use both the Lee and Forster chamfer/deburring tool that it puts a blade like edge on the case mouth by the time it actually removes the burr.
    You done it right!


  7. #7
    JeffreyDeGraff's Avatar
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    I get exactly the same bur that you are talking about. And I have to angle the case on the deburring tool exactly the way you describe. I think what flyeralan said, a dull cutter blade, is the culprit. I’m going to try a carbide cutter and see if this helps “cut” the brass rather than “push” the brass.


  8. #8
    Jay Andrew's Avatar
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    I agree, sounds like a dull cutter to me. Carbide isn’t sharper, then a high speed steel cutter, but it will last longer. The trade off is that it’s more brittle, so be careful not to drop it or rough handle it.

    I find the deburring tools you use will make a big difference on the ease of deburring. Sinclair makes a set that I am especially fond of.


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  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny View Post
    You done it right!
    Oh good. I’m glad you said so! I thought I had read somewhere that you weren’t supposed to sharpen brass to an edge like that so I was worried I was doing it wrong.


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  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by JeffreyDeGraff View Post
    I get exactly the same bur that you are talking about. And I have to angle the case on the deburring tool exactly the way you describe. I think what flyeralan said, a dull cutter blade, is the culprit. I’m going to try a carbide cutter and see if this helps “cut” the brass rather than “push” the brass.
    I have a carbide cutter head in my Lyman trimmer and it still created a heck of a burr.


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