Printable View
I have a good rifle, good scope, now I need to load. I have my books (still thumbing through) but where do you findrifle specific starting loads with suggestions for powder? Do you build backwards, I like projectiles from (just picking) Winchester and go from there?
First rifle up is a .300 WM from Savage (111 trophy hunter).
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Picking the bullet for the intended purpose is always my first step. Then I look at powders that are going to give me the velocities I hope to achieve. Then start working up a load.
JTD
Where do I find the info though? I know rifles shoot some powders and bullet combos better, does Savage have a page for it? Is it in the Bible? What about newer guns?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Also, is there info somewhere on making different ammo, saw I want to make the bullet smaller (whitetail) so I can use the same rifle? I hunt deer and elk at same time, I don’t want to carry 2 rifles because of my disability...
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Id use the same load for each animal. Find a bullet weight you want and then look at the powders. Find a velocity you want to be close to with the least amount of pressure. Then start your load development. I start in the middle. Then load two more sets higher and lower than my starting point. This usually lets you know which direction you need to go. Once I find the two that shoot the closest i then load 5 shots each of everything between them. Yes its time consuming but it also leaves you with a weapon that is deadly accurate. If you miss it's definitely your own fault. Good luck and be safe.
Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk
Same load for both animals ?? No problem.
Pick a bullet between 150 and 168grs. Tons of different powders for that application. Buy and use only large rifle magnum primers.
Take a close look at the non traditional bullets like the all copper,Nosler Partition,and the Hornady GMX. Remember . . . less lead in the bullets makeup,the longer the bullet,for any given weight. No big deal . . . just pick and load appropriately. --- SAWMAN
Thanks guys. I contacted savage about a different issue, will let you know what they say too... I love good info before starting... nooooooob lol
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I couldn’t agree more with they guys saying pick one bullet for both types of animals. Having 2 different bullet/ loads will also give you 2 different points of impact, so you would only be sighted in for one load at any one time. 300win mags generally like the slower burning powders. Any of the load manuals will have good data for the bullet weight you select, and hogdgon web site has tons of load data also.
JTD
Thanks Jeff, so the .300 WM with good shot placement, I won’t lose too much meat?
It was my understanding, each specific rifle had it’s own general likes and dislikes, which is why I was a asking about that part. I like the 2 up, 2 down, so I am sure general info for a .300 WM will get me in the start... you guys rock!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
The type of bullet you use is usually the biggest culprit of meat loss. Rapid expanding bullets ( Nosler ballistic tip, hornady sst) driven at high velocities will destroy more meat than a controlled expansion (barnes , bonded core ) bullet.
JTD
I just finished settling in on a 300 win mag load as I had a really accurate 178 grain ELD-X load but after losing a deer with a .270 because of a frangible SST bullet I've switch over to either Accubonds or Federal Trophy Boned for my large animal guns or at a minimum a soft point bullet. Also, if you are interested in using Nikon BDC large game scopes they are essentially setup for 3000fps bullets so I use a 180 grain, at full load which usually does not work for the most accuracy but did in this case, and yardages are pretty close to make the gun quite easy to figure where to shoot after zero sight in at 200yds, then easy range shooting for farther shots. But, if going for longer ranges than say 300yds, get to a range and do some longer shooting to verify scope and where it hits.
Typically I begin with what bullet weight I'd like to shoot, I tend to lean towards heavy for bore projectiles, but not always, just depends on the rifle, barrel twist, etc. Next I'll reference Nosler data if it's available because I've historically had good luck there, if Nosler says it's the most accurate tested powder for a given bullet weight I generally find that to be accurate information and a good place to start. Then I'll look at what velocity range I want to be in, I've found for the most part that a given rifle will be most accurate with any bullet weight at or near a specific velocity. For instance my 6.5 Swede, I've shot all sorts of bullets out of it, but mostly 140gr pills of various manufacturers, so I did extensive ladder testing with that weight bullet, found and accuracy node at about 2850fps at the muzzle fired over a chronograph. At one point I had to fireform some brass for the rifle and purchased some inexpensive Hornady 95gr VMax bullets specifically for this task. I opened a manual don't recall which one but I bet it was the Hornady book) looked for a powder that had plenty on hand of and a charge weight that got me in the neighborhood of 2850fps and low and behold I got lucky. They shot well, sub MOA and went to the same POA as my 140gr loads at least out to 300yds. Win win, now I have a varmint load for that particular rifle. Am I pushing those 95gr pills as fast as possible-NO, but I don't have to mess around rezeroing the rifle and an unlucky coyote won't know the difference.