Printable View
I'm looking for recommendations on digital calipers. My inexpensive Centech is being unfaithful and lies to me. I've noticed different brands look identical in design and features but with different prices. I'm prioritizing reliability over cost. Is there a particular brand worth considering? The 8" Mitutoyo 500-197-30 have caught my eye, are orientals faithful and true?
In my experience in the machining field Mitutoyo is well respected for accuracy as well as Starrett. I have always had the Mitutoyo mics and calipers and had good luck with them.
Some of the Mitutoyo calipers are made in Brazil and others in Japan. Both seems to be good quality.
I bought these for general shop use:
https://www.brownells.com/reloading/...prod37768.aspx
IMO you do not really need to spend more than $29 or $39 or so for good,functional calipers that are digital. For me . . . digital was a "must have". --- SAWMAN
Starrett been used for the time,and time tested for my lathe work
Mitutoyo is the brand most often used by the machinists I have come across. Less expensive than Starrett and just as durable and accurate.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Lonie
I have that Caliber. Very nice, a bit over kill for Reloading tho. I have two RCBS calibers one digital and one dial. Both have assisted me in loading thousands of rounds. Plus 8” is a little long and clunky for measuring stuff smaller then 50 BMG ;-)
All calibers can lie to you. Check them frequently with a couple different standards. You never know when someone might drop them and not tell you about it.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have an old Craftsman dial caliper that does the job (the same type is sold under many names) but I wanted a second set that I could just leave my comparator attached to. I saw this on Ultimate Reloader and decided to try it on Gavin's recommendation. Under 30 bucks and lots of great reviews. So far, I have zero complaints.
https://www.amazon.com/iGaging-Elect...35147515&psc=1
There ya go. <$30.00 --- SAWMAN
I never have liked the digital calipers. A decent pair works fine but when t battery goes dead in though middle dong something and its a 30 mile round trip to where you can get batteries it is frustrating. My 40+ year old Starret dial calipers have never done that.
I bought the RCBS plastic dial calipers when I first started reloading. They worked for me great for 6 years or so.
Then I got a stainless dial caliper that I used up untill 2001. They worked fine but started getting hard to see and figure out when I started getting older.
I have had the digital calipers for about 7 years now,and for me,are soooooo much easier. I have a set of mic check gauges that I check them with every so often. They are always right on. The "secret" to using digital calipers is use them gently and remember to turn off when not in use.
And I keep a spare battery for them . . . always. --- SAWMAN
Personally, I don't trust digitals. I use Mitutoyo 6" dial calipers for reloading. I've been using the same pair of 8" dials at work for almost twenty years.
Buy quality and it'll last.
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
I have a question regarding the caliper that I currently use for those that have a little more experience in using that tool. Prior to this, my experience with using a caliper was limited, so I am uncertain as to whether this is within the boundaries of acceptable. First off, the one that I have was included in a bundled kit purchased with press, dies, etc. It is a low end piece of equipment. My limited experience with reloading is primarily handgun caliber and I have recently started with 223 Rem. I have noticed a consistent variation of .003 when the cases are being measured at different points in the jaw (top, midway, bottom). Is this an acceptable variance or should I purchase a replacement? If not, do I then use the smallest measurement of the case as the "correct" length?
Thank you in advance for any insight provided.
Measure where the red line in the picture is. Measuring out at the end of the jaws can give a false reading if you use too much pressure. You need to learn the proper "touch" so to speak. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ecedb6f958.jpg
Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
Thank you, Josh, your answer is the information sought regarding caliper use. The "touch" is in process of being learned with less than optimal equipment. My concern was if the low end calipers were defective, I believe that they're just not quality built. Almost bought an iGaging IP54, but glad that I held off for right now and put the money toward the purchase of a WFT to upgrade my trimming process instead. The new caliper is now in next month's budget.
Another way you may get variance is if your brass isn’t centered in the caliper, and putting it in, in different orientations. If the mouth of your brass isn’t square, one side higher than the other.Quote:
Originally Posted by maudib
JTD
Both points you make, JTD, are ones that I have noticed. That's the main reason why an upgrade to the trimming equipment is happening now. Eliminate potential issues with superior components. When I purchased the Lee kit, I knew some of the pieces that were included ranked as "starter" tools and would need upgraded eventually. A lot of learning has happened over the past 3 months, with a whole bunch more in the future.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge, gentlemen.
Former machinist, my first purchase was a digital Mitutoyo and they are still going strong 20 years on.
Yeah, Mitutoyo seems to be the preferred brand on the forum. Those will have to wait for the next budget cycle (or 2). There are plenty of 9mm components that can keep me busy until then, fortunately.
I have a set of dial Mitutoyo and a RCBS dial as well. There's nuthin wrong with dial calipers. Hell, my pops still uses his old vernier calipers. I think it's more important to know the limitations of that particular instrument and realize when you need to step up to a micrometer.
This is a scenario where having a few gauge blocks or 1-2-3 blocks comes in handy.Quote:
Originally Posted by maudib
With the resolution of most dial and digital calipers being +/- 0.001 inch, a 1-2-3 block ground within +/- 0.0002 inch is a adequate check.
Example:
https://www.amazon.com/Taytools--Har.../dp/B081D9CYPJ
Purchased a used Mitutoyo dial model yesterday for $45. Going to crank out a few 223 rounds today and use both the new-to-me dial and the existing digital on them for comparison.
Let us know how the comparison goes. I’m always curious about stuff like this.
JTD
Case gauge time.
Spent a few minutes re-measuring a sample of the 9mm I made last week with both calipers. There was a consistent .005 difference in digital vs the dial, with the dial measuring shorter than the digital. The dial was bought from Craigslist, I asked when it was last calibrated. The short answer I received was, "a month or so ago by the shop's weights and measures guy". Good news is that the there was exact consistency in the readings, which I went through and did twice for 5 different cartridges.
Bad news is that I don't currently own a gauge block so that is next on the list to pick up as soon as possible. If anyone has a reason that I should look for something more that what I found at the Home Depot site, please let me know.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-3-in...0423/308391064
I need to get some of those
JTD
My, um, critique of this idea: there is no statement about the accuracy of the block. Maybe this information is somewhere, just wasn’t obvious to me on the Home Depot website or the WEN website. You’re looking for something that is ground to less than 0.0005 inch and preferably closer to 0.0002 inch or better.Quote:
Originally Posted by maudib
If you’re into woodworking, then the Veritas set-up blocks with 1-2-3 block sold by Lee Valley are worth a look. Although, sadly, out of stock at the time of this post.
RustE-
That was the exact information I was hoping that someone on the forum could answer as I could not find it either, including multiple searches for it in alternative sources than the 2 sites you looked at as well. The only function that I'll be using calipers for is reloading. There is a branch of MSC local to me, so I could pick up a 1" Mitutoyo block for $35-ish. If the Wen 123 blocks are going to be within the tolerance of the digital caliper (+|- .0005), I would opt for them due to cost as I am not yet into a level of precision that would really justify the additional cost. Going to send an email to Wen to see if they can tell me what those 123 blocks tolerances are held to by QC during the manufacturing process.
How about these?
http://www.igaging.com/page46.html
Several places sell them:
https://www.grizzly.com/products/iga...ock-set/t24799
https://www.ebay.com/itm/123-blocks-...oAAOSwgqlaljO0
Another option:
https://www.penntoolco.com/precise-u...locks-ubs-123/
Appreciate the options, RustE. Waiting on a return email from WEN as to the accuracy of their blocks before I make any decisions.
The Grizzly 1-2-3 blocks arrived today, thanks to RustE for the helpful link! Never heard back from the inquiry sent to WEN. After letting the blocks warm up to room temps, I found that the Mitutoyo dial caliper was spot on at all 3 lengths, splitting the 0 in half with no shading either way. The cheap digital, not so much, especially at the 2 & 3" length measurements. In addition, I measured 3 completed calibers, 40, 357 Sig & 223. There was a .0015 differential on the pistol case OAL, but still had a .005 difference with the 223. I trust the Mitutoyo based on what the results showed today. Hoping that the extra batteries bought for the digital calipers can be used in other devices.
The other news to share is that I am a Sage's Reloading customer as of today. Finally able to complete the check-out process before the stock sold out!
Thanks for posting this. This is a very informative thread.
JTD
Another use for those 1-2-3 blocks (I made mine as a Machine Tool Tech student 20 years ago)-when mounting a scope I use my blocks to set up a barreled action on a level surface then true my vertical crosshair to a distant plumb line there by insuring that my vertical crosshair is perpendicular to the axis of the bore of the rifle. Always trusted this method more than all the gadgets on the market. At least with this method the vertical is set in some relationship to a machined surface on the action rather than some hypothetical relation to the stock or the erector caps which may or may not be flat or even in any true relationship to the crosshair.Quote:
Originally Posted by maudib
Appreciate that tip, Mauser. Hadn't considered the blocks for that purpose, but it makes a lot of sense.