10MM Squib/Barrel slugging

Hello, I have a Glock 40 MOS in 10MM.

Right after o picked it up I installed a Lonewolf barrel, stainless steel guide rod and a 22# recoil spring. The guns intended use is woods carry using 220 grain hard cast bullets shoving them at 1250fps

While working up the load I experienced a squib. There was no damage because o caught it, dropped the mag and removed the round that chambered right after the squib.

Removing the squib took a lot of effort but I was able to get it out of the barrel without damaging the bullet or barrel. I had been thinking about slugging my barrel and thought I had just got lucky enough to have done that.

The bullet actually measures .394 after removing it from the barrel.

While working up the load my biggest issue was failure to feed and sever pressure issues in the range of the powder charge that someone else used to get to the desired velocity with the same bullet.

I only achieved the desired results when I removed the decapping in from my sizing die and ran the finished rounds throug it.

I have found that doing this is resizing the bullet to .396 from .401 leaving a very small portion of the bullet at .401.

I have a couple of directions I'm thinking about going.

1) remove the aftermarket barrel and use the stock one that came with it.

2) see if I can get custom sized bullets for it. Or resize them myself but this requires a significant investment in tools and time.

3) start casting my own. Same issue as above

4) continue my process as is but I'm not sure this is a good idea

Thoughts???

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4jorgies

Hello, I have a Glock 40 MOS in 10MM.

Right after o picked it up I installed a Lonewolf barrel, stainless steel guide rod and a 22# recoil spring. The guns intended use is woods carry using 220 grain hard cast bullets shoving them at 1250fps

While working up the load I experienced a squib. There was no damage because o caught it, dropped the mag and removed the round that chambered right after the squib.

Removing the squib took a lot of effort but I was able to get it out of the barrel without damaging the bullet or barrel. I had been thinking about slugging my barrel and thought I had just got lucky enough to have done that.

The bullet actually measures .394 after removing it from the barrel.

While working up the load my biggest issue was failure to feed and sever pressure issues in the range of the powder charge that someone else used to get to the desired velocity with the same bullet.

I only achieved the desired results when I removed the decapping in from my sizing die and ran the finished rounds throug it.

I have found that doing this is resizing the bullet to .396 from .401 leaving a very small portion of the bullet at .401.

I have a couple of directions I'm thinking about going.

1) remove the aftermarket barrel and use the stock one that came with it.

2) see if I can get custom sized bullets for it. Or resize them myself but this requires a significant investment in tools and time.

3) start casting my own. Same issue as above

4) continue my process as is but I'm not sure this is a good idea

Thoughts???

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Did you do a plunk test with the new barrel?

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CodySPowell

Did you do a plunk test with the new barrel?

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I did. The only time I was able to get them to consistently pass was after full length sizing the loaded round.

They all passed in the factory barrel.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4jorgies

I did. The only time I was able to get them to consistently pass was after full length sizing the loaded round.

They all passed in the factory barrel.

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206 226 8664, give Wes a call. He'll get you squared away.

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Wondering how long that LW bbl is ?? That 220gr @ 1250 seems a little hot to me.
I have a Glock OEM 6" hunting bbl for my Glock 20 and I am getting 1320 from a 200gr WFNGC.
.394" is severely undersized. What does LW have to say ?? --- SAWMAN

Quote:

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Originally Posted by SAWMAN

Wondering how long that LW bbl is ?? That 220gr @ 1250 seems a little hot to me.
I have a Glock OEM 6" hunting bbl for my Glock 20 and I am getting 1320 from a 200gr WFNGC.
.394" is severely undersized. What does LW have to say ?? --- SAWMAN

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The barrel is 6"

The 1250fps is either a typo or auto correct I missed, they are actually 1200FPS but you are right they are hot.

I'm going to get some soft lead and slug the barrel to get a better idea on actuall size before contacting LW

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4jorgies

The barrel is 6"

The 1250fps is either a typo or auto correct I missed, they are actually 1200FPS but you are right they are hot.

I'm going to get some soft lead and slug the barrel to get a better idea on actuall size before contacting LW

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Did you call Wes? The problem isn't the barrel.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CodySPowell

Did you call Wes? The problem isn't the barrel.

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Yes I did. He was very helpful.

What I thought was a factory crimp die, is not.

Also picking up an actual Factory Crimp Die

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4jorgies

Yes I did. He was very helpful.

What I thought was a factory crimp die, is not.

Also picking up an actual Factory Crimp Die

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Perfect! I was going to recommend that. [emoji106][emoji846]

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by CodySPowell

Perfect! I was going to recommend that. [emoji106][emoji846]

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Every day is a learning experience. That is the beauty of reloading. Always something to learn.

I got started reloading by a retiring electrition giving me all of his equipment because he was moving into an RV.

What I thought was a 40/10MM factory crimp die was nothing more than a seating die with the seating plug removed.

That explains why I did not see what the benifet of the factory crimp die was.



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4jorgies

Every day is a learning experience. That is the beauty of reloading. Always something to learn.

I got started reloading by a retiring electrition giving me all of his equipment because he was moving into an RV.

What I thought was a 40/10MM factory crimp die was nothing more than a seating die with the seating plug removed.

That explains why I did not see what the benifet of the factory crimp die was.



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Yes! The almighty learning process. That's why I love this hobby and the willingness of others to help. [emoji16]

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Update

I used some pure lead and poured it into a spent .40 call casing that measured .403 I.D.

After it cooled I used a kinetic bullet puller to remove the slug. The finished slug measured .402

I then gave the barrel a good cleaning and after a light coat of oil I tapped the slug about halfway into the barrel then switched direction and taped it back out. The slug then measured .400 to .4005

My calipers show a small 5 after the .400 but not sure I trust them to be that close

Other changes

I purchased some new Starline 10mm brass from Wes

Purchased a Lee 4 die set that included the Factory Crimp Die

Loading the 220gr bullet in the new brass with the new dies on a lee 3 hole turret I did not have any of the wrinkles in the case I was getting at the bottom of the bullet and only 2 of the 150 I loaded did not pass the plunk test before the FCD. After I ran them through the FCD 100% passed.

I will see how they run this weekend. Also going to chronograph them to see if that changes at all

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by 4jorgies

Update

I used some pure lead and poured it into a spent .40 call casing that measured .403 I.D.

After it cooled I used a kinetic bullet puller to remove the slug. The finished slug measured .402

I then gave the barrel a good cleaning and after a light coat of oil I tapped the slug about halfway into the barrel then switched direction and taped it back out. The slug then measured .400 to .4005

My calipers show a small 5 after the .400 but not sure I trust them to be that close

Other changes

I purchased some new Starline 10mm brass from Wes

Purchased a Lee 4 die set that included the Factory Crimp Die

Loading the 220gr bullet in the new brass with the new dies on a lee 3 hole turret I did not have any of the wrinkles in the case I was getting at the bottom of the bullet and only 2 of the 150 I loaded did not pass the plunk test before the FCD. After I ran them through the FCD 100% passed.

I will see how they run this weekend. Also going to chronograph them to see if that changes at all

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Did you say you slugged the barrel from muzzle end but checked the squib from the chamber end? If so that implies the chamber end of the barrel is tighter than the muzzle. If so, nothing will fix that. Revolver barrels sometime are narrower where they screw into the frame but obviously an autoloader can't do that. So I want to be sure that's what you meant. As for the sizing die, there are sets from the same company that size while decapping and also those that size alone, with the decap die including belling. This got me just last week. I ordered a Lee sizing die so now I have two decap dies- one that sizes and one that bells.