Someone on here was selling annealers, I'd like to see the video again and the cost

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Originally Posted by Flyeralan

That link didn't work for me. I used one pan for mine, made it deep and have spacers to insert to do shorter cartridges, and made the feed ramp adjustable. Works super for as simple as it is.

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Yeah, it's hard to find a good video hosting site anymore. Sorry about that. I like the idea of using a spacer. Those pans are a bit of a pain to cut neatly. Simple is good!

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Originally Posted by cynjon

Here's the parts list from the original thread I referenced when building mine: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...Aj7xa0eX0/edit

The motors are less than $10 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/LYWS-Gear-box.../dp/B00NDZ0FOA I think I paid around $15 for mine, LOL.

Speed controller: https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Du...9ETECDHNG78ABX (I think this is the right one, just going by the photo)

Power Supply: https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switchi...69VRWBSMQHPGH9 (Again, I *think* this is the right one/right size)

Those are the three most expensive components. I only used one speed controller. My feed drum runs wide open whenever there is not a case in front of the inductive sensor (the orance "spot" at the bottom of the feed ramp) and stops as soon as a case is waiting for the cake pan annealing drum to complete its revolution. The only speed controller is for the cake pan drum. So with 2 motors/1 speed controller/1 power supply, you're at $60-65 for the major components. The thread I referenced above has some great tips/tricks/mods that others have incorporated into their annealers. For me it was a fun project and in the end, it works great. Well worth the time and small cash outlay to build mine. If you prefer to buy vs. build, I'd go with the Annealeez: https://annealeez.com/product/annealeez/

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I've saved and also made a printed copy of instructions. I'll take a very close look at it. Time is a bit of a factor as it seems we never have much free time here but this is not an emergency so I will probably start buying parts. The feeder is the only thing I think I'll have a bit of a problem manufacturing, unless, it did say it was wood or plastic. That I can do but I would think it would need to be aluminum or steel which I do not have a lathe for that, only wood or plastic.

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Originally Posted by 72Camaro

I've saved and also made a printed copy of instructions. I'll take a very close look at it. Time is a bit of a factor as it seems we never have much free time here but this is not an emergency so I will probably start buying parts. The feeder is the only thing I think I'll have a bit of a problem manufacturing, unless, it did say it was wood or plastic. That I can do but I would think it would need to be aluminum or steel which I do not have a lathe for that, only wood or plastic.

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I bought a chunk of delrin off of eBay and used that. Wood would work as well, I would think. Definitely no need for it to be metal.

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Originally Posted by cynjon

I bought a chunk of delrin off of eBay and used that. Wood would work as well, I would think. Definitely no need for it to be metal.

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I checked prices on Delrin, some is quite expensive but did find a supplier about 1/2 the cost that was on ebay, but who knows what shipping is. My dad and brother work with bullet resistant plastic for banks but the sheet good, I don't think I've seen any over 1-1/2", the Delrin is available in 2" at a descent cost. Does it mill on a lathe and drill like normal plastic or does it have some qualities that make it hard to work with because of hardness?

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Originally Posted by 72Camaro

I checked prices on Delrin, some is quite expensive but did find a supplier about 1/2 the cost that was on ebay, but who knows what shipping is. My dad and brother work with bullet resistant plastic for banks but the sheet good, I don't think I've seen any over 1-1/2", the Delrin is available in 2" at a descent cost. Does it mill on a lathe and drill like normal plastic or does it have some qualities that make it hard to work with because of hardness?

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If you've got access to a mill, it'll be a snap. Very easy to machine.

I don't have an access to a mill. I'll figure it out. Have a hold on parts right now as my 2013 silverado threw a code, I changed the part above the gas tank and it is still throwing a code. Went to the people that told me which part and they said drive it for a while, sometimes it takes a bit for the engine to realize the new part is in. I thought the just cleared the codes but he said they did not. May have to take to a mechanic if code does not go off.

Bummer...hopefully the computer will clear the code for you. My Cummins has only thrown one code (DEF system) during extremely cold weather, but of course I was in the middle of a trip across the state. Luckily, it warmed up a few degrees and the code went away. Thought for sure it was going to end up in the shop for awhile.