Mold prep and maintenance

When I get a new mold the first thing I do is clean the oils from the factory of off it with dawn dish soap and a tooth brush. Then I put anti seize on the sprue handful bolt and handles buddy for longevity of my product. Some don't which is fine, it's more of a personal preference. Then I smoke the cavities with my lighter or a match, this allows the freshly cast bullets to drop easier. The soot may stick to the first few drops, should easily wipe off. I normally cull them at first to get my mold up to temp. Some may say not to dip ther corner of your mold into the pot to warm your mold, I've never had an issue doing it. But it will heat one end quicker than the other which may cause an issue over time on a six cavity mold (which I've only heard). But I do it a few times and rest the mold on top of my pot so the heat can spread. After this start casting and enjoy the craft of making your own bullets. When I get done I repeat the same steps of cleaning my mold as if it was new without smoking it. I wait until my next session to soot the mold cause it'll harden over time. I then inspect the face of my mold for any lead splattered on it. I normally take a very soft brass brush to it anyway just to help with any imperfections. If that doesn't get it off DO NOT use metal to scrap your soft mold. Use wood, the wood will give before the aluminum or soft steel. If that doesn't get it take a low heat hand torch (NOT CUTTING TORCH) and wave it over the spot of lead. The lead will soften and come off easily, try not to smear it. Smearing gets into the little vents that are there to allow air to escape while pouring your cast. If I missed anything please add and put your technique or process. The way I do it isn't the only way, and there are way better casters on this forum. I'll add some pictures of what Warped mold will produce below. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...af0c275160.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...105fb3f821.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e0e2783af7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...42757389a4.jpg

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Awesome write up!!
Lots of stuff in there that is the same way I used to do it when I was casting a lot. :)

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Originally Posted by Wes Sage

Awesome write up!!
Lots of stuff in there that is the same way I used to do it when I was casting a lot. :)

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Thanks bro, seen it wasn't here yet. Won't be long and we'll have the info needed.

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For sure brother!!
The more we add, the more it will help people here, looking for answers

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Originally Posted by Shane P

Thanks bro, seen it wasn't here yet. Won't be long and we'll have the info needed.

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I do pretty much the same thing except instead of anti seize I touch a dab of 2 cycle oil on the joints and pins with a q-tip. Then I lightly wipe the bottom of the sprue plate with the same q-tip. I prevents lead smear when cutting the sprues. I re do it before every casting session.

Also, instead of smoking with a lighter, I flux with sawdust and set the molds on top of the pot with the sprue plate open while it's smoking/burning. After a few sessions I don't even bother with this step though.

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Originally Posted by Rebsix

I do pretty much the same thing except instead of anti seize I touch a dab of 2 cycle oil on the joints and pins with a q-tip. Then I lightly wipe the bottom of the sprue plate with the same q-tip. I prevents lead smear when cutting the sprues. I re do it before every casting session.

Also, instead of smoking with a lighter, I flux with sawdust and set the molds on top of the pot with the sprue plate open while it's smoking/burning. After a few sessions I don't even bother with this step though.

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That's a good technique, I'll have to try that.

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